Depth-always set your depth manually. You need to set the depth range around 20 feet deeper than the depth that you are fishing. This allows you to “see” the bottom hardness
Gain-Never over-adjust the gain. You should only have to set the gain once and never have to touch it. This setting should be made in an area that you are familiar with. The gain should be started at 0 and brought up until the depth is shown and the bottom hardness is shown without interference in the “water.”
Zoom-This is usually set a 2x unless you are fishing in depths over 150 ft. Then it would be plausible to use 3x. The zoom should be used on a split screen mode not full screen.
All other settings are best to be left alone unless a specific issue must be addressed.
Using the Machine:
Finding a ledge- look for a hard bottom with a sharp drop-off. This is a ledge and it is always hard around the ledge due to the rock outcroppings.
Finding a hard bottom area- this area will show a much darker and thicker seabed. Under the seabed a “double bottom” will appear and look connected to the seabed with tails coming from the seabed.
Finding a fish show-look for a reflection that is not as hard as the seabed. It usually appears as a “ball” of fish or boomerangs well off the bottom when the fish are very big. This is when you don’t want your bottom finder on the auto mode. A great way to see an exploded fish show is to look for a bait school. These will resemble a huge fish ball suspended away from the seabed.
